Interview to Manuel Lopez, Iberian “Pata Negra” ham expert:

I’m 43 years old. I’m from Barcelona. I’m “tuner hams”. I am married and have a son, Mauro (2). Policy? Whoever has the most to help those who have less. Not believing in God, I believe in the social values of Christianity. Seeing and feeling, know what hams will be optimal

Tastings

Spain produces 40 million annually of ham legs… of which only half a million are Iberian pork …of which one fifth are more than most. And about this, nobody knows more than this man, since he was 14 he has touched and opened hams and more hams and sausages store of his family in the Boqueria. He then earned his master MBA and applied it into he likes more in the world: the pure bellota Iberian ham. He seeks that we will learn about ham as well as about wines: their vintages, -according to the amounts of bellota-, the nuances of flavor into same ham leg … Details than he explains very well in tastings organized at his store in Barcelona, Reserva Ibérica.

How many hams have you cut into your life?
Three per day for 25 years … Something like 27,000 hams! Would I cut to you a “lonchita” of this Iberian leg?

Why I like so much the Iberian?
Because it has umami.

What is “umami”?
The fifth taste. It was discovered by a Japanese researcher studying some algae.

Describe the taste.
Beyond the salty, sweet, bitter and sour, it is addictive … Try this ham!

Hummm …
It’s a unique taste, singular, different: we have here a gastronomic treasure!

What ham you just give me?
A slice (chopped fine) of most excellent qualityIberian ham.

How is a slice “well cut”?
Finely sliced. And short. To fit whole into mouth and melt his fat … What a shame not to cut correctly a great ham!

What does it mean “sublime quality”?
The ham from Iberian pig, bred in pasture , neutered, that has fed grass and acorns, which has run and has trotted, sacrificed at the right time (January is the best month), and whose leg is salted, consolidated , Kiln dry and matured in the cellar at the precise terms …

And not all Iberian ham is like it?
No, because there are recebo Iberian ham (pasture. acorn …and supplemented with forage), rhere are bait field ham (field without acorn and only forahe) and there are bait ham (feedlot and forage).

Can you tell difference between each one?
Of course! So it should be specified by law the great distinction between the pasturage Iberian ham and industry Iberian ham .

How do you achieve sublime quality?
Breeding a Iberian pig at pasture, among oaks, that eats only grass and acorns, sacrifice it at the right time and cure him. in perfect conditions. Is what I do myself!

What, exactly?
I supervise and I select the best pieces.

Is that being “hams tuner”?
In France there is a “tuner cheese”, which guides aging cheese for optimal pieces … I do that with the legs of Iberian ham, and so get the best.

And how many legs acquires per year?
About four thousand, for my establishment and to export to my partner in Japan.

Is known outside the Iberian ham?
Little yet, but once they taste it, they changed the face …Remain amazed!

Another lonchita, please …
Take it … Iberian ham outperforms three gastronomic pearls: caviar, foie gras and truffles.

Argues that
Is better for their higher nuances of flavor and nutritional qualities.

Is very nutritious Iberian ham?
It is a food with many B vitamins and antioxidants. His fat stored oleic acid, olive oil extra virgin, which preserves our arteries. This quality distinguishes Iberian ham other ham hams like serrano, prosciutto …

Is this due to the breed of pig?
Yes, native pig breed with a genetic infiltrating the fat in meat making it as delicious! That fat absorbs and stores the essence of everything that pork eats.

Yes? Is the acorn shows in the taste?
Of course! And if there are oaks, stands the flavor note. And of aromatic shrubs. I once tasted a ham and noticed thyme! He had eaten too much.

Where to begin his work as “hams tuner”?
I locate small farmers that breed lovingly their Iberian pigs, and the artisanal dryers who try very carefully cure of their hams.

Are not most people do that?
A fifth of the 500,000 annual ham legs (on average). And there I go: I touch the legs, turned his curing …I touched and have cut many hams from 14 years that I know will which be great!

What are the designations of origin of ham?
Four: Huelva, Guijuelo, Dehesa de Extremadura and Pedroches Valley.

From which of these is your favorite ham?
Depends … The Huelva (that’s the brand Jabugo) has tones of nuts … The Guijuelo, sweet tones, of toasted sugar. The Extremadura is an intermediate …

How do you advise me to eat good Iberian ham?
Freshly cut. Taking it with your fingers. And you need nothing more.Ham is the eligible gold single of gastronomy!, As Arzak.

What drink to accompany it?
What better marida is a glass of champagne, which refreshes the mouth. Or a glass of fino or chamomile, great geographical pairings. Red wine, however … sends too mouth: no pairs well with Iberian ham!

What part of the leg is your favorite?
Because of its high intensity of flavor, I like the ham in the tip of the leg that touches the hipbone.

What are those white spots that I see sometimes in the ham meat?
Amino crystallized: great!

What is the best ham you remember tested throughout your life?
I was 15, I went hiking with friends, we stopped to eat in the forest, I pulled my homemade ham sandwich …And I have not forgotten that fabulous enjoyment!

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Iberian ham is probably the Spanish product that has more presence abroad.
We find it on the Oscars, in the Masters Series tennis or in the Formula 1 and in other international events encircling the world.

The Iberian Ham (Pata Negra ham) is conquering all the countries where he disembark. In the UK, thanks to the hard work of important chefs Spanish, the English are beginning to learn to recognize a good ham and export has doubled since 2008.

In France, this ham already has several years courting everyone who tastes it, and surely his entry into the French market has been easier because the French already knew what a ham since they have the jambon de Bayonne, which has nothing to do with our Iberian Acorn ham but it certainly helps to introduce the product in that country. Therefore, the “Pata Negra ham” has very good acceptance in France and is gaining adherents.

In Italy the same thing happens a little, have a long habit of cured ham, with ham star, prosciutto di Parma, which has nothing to do with our Iberian ham (Prosciutto Pata Negra) but it has certainly helped a lot to our Iberian ham to have a great acceptance among the Italians.

In other countries like United States, its introduction has been slow and complicated because the government has issued strict quality controls that forced companies interested in exporting, to make significant investments in their factories. Permits are very recent and that until 2005 could not be exported U.S. Iberian ham.

Another complicated country but has created high expectations is China. In this country began exporting in 2008 after having had to adapt their facilities to the requirements of the Chinese health authorities.
Exports are growing by leaps and bounds, moving from the 2.6 tonnes in 2009 to 9.9 in 2010 and 13.1 in 2011.

In Russia, they ate ham in a while but began to popularize consumption since the middle of the last decade. Those responsible have been the Russian tourists who visited our country, to prove it in Spain and is taken to his country, thus making him known compatriots. In 2011, Russia exported Iberian ham worth 160 million euros.

So, seeing that our ham is a jewel of Spanish cuisine that’s where love goes, we have to be careful with it and give full attention and resources it deserves to succeed worldwide.

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If we take a stroll through the many shops of Iberian hams available on the Internet we can find titles like “Jabugo ham“, “Pata Negra ham,” “Serrano Acorn ham” and many more.

At the end one does not know the difference between ham and Iberian ham Jabugo if an Iberian ham “Pata Negra” is an acorn ham and end up not buying any for fear of being deceived. So today I give you some tips and some information that you may know best ham you are buying.

– Jabugo Ham: this are not giving us any information about the quality of Iberian ham, only indicates that the ham have been cured ham Jabugo.

– Pata Negra Ham: What is Pata Negra? This term is colloquial and is forbidden to appear on any label. This word is used for the Iberian ham and if not accompanied by quality ham, Acorn, Acorn or bait, is not giving us any information about the quality of Iberian ham is announced.

– Serrano Acorn ham or Serrano Pata Negra Ham: these and other phrases I’ve seen especially in foreign pages are completely erroneous because the hams and Iberian hams “Pata Negra” come from different pig breeds (white pig and Iberian pig), so that a ham can not be of acorn or be accompanied by the slang word “Pata Negra” which refers to the Iberian ham.

In summary, the important thing when buying an Iberian ham is look on the label for this:
– Iberian ham.
– Quality, Acorn, Acorn or bait.
– His source: Huelva (Jabugo), Cordoba (Valley of the Pedroches), Extremadura (Badajoz …) and Salamanca (Guijielo).

I hope that these tips will make it easier to distinguish the different Iberian hams sold in stores.
If you still have doubts, you can write to this article and we will try to help.

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Añada

The overall number of Iberian pigs sacrificed during the same transhumance. Each and every añada has its own features.

Bodega (cellar)

A bodega is a room or enclosed space with constant level of humidity and temperature where hams are cured and then stored.

Cala (piercing stage)

Experts pierce hams with a needle (called cala) made of cow or horse shinbone to test the aroma. When the needle is pulled out, it is whiffed in order to rank the ham.
In this stage, it is possible to unveil the unique flavour and aroma of Iberian ham.

Montanera

In this stage, it is possible to take advantage of natural resources. For these reasons, Iberian pigs eat acorns, herbs and roots.
As a general rule, this stage begins in October, as this is the period in which acorns start falling, and it lasts until February or March.  A shepherd controls the herd of pigs during this phase.
In order to exploit the greatest potential offered by acorns, it is recommended to begin feeding animals in areas difficult to reach as they are more agile.
It is the high level of fat provided by acorns that grants quality and prestige to Iberian ham.

Cerdo ibérico (Iberian pig)

Iberian pigs are indigenous to the south-west and east area of the Iberian Peninsula. The Iberian breed is currently one of the few examples of a domesticated breed, as it has adapted to a pastoral setting. Iberian pigs are worldwide known thanks to their great capacity to accumulate fat under its skin and between the muscular fibres. The extremities of this animal are normally thin and long.

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The town of Jabugo is located in the province of Huelva, Andalusia (Southern Spain). In 2007, it had a population of 2,435 inhabitants in 25 Km². Its population density is 99.0/Km². It is located at 112 Km from its capital, Huelva. Jabugo’s municipality is composed by four urban centres: El Repilado, Los Romeros, Jabugo and El Quejigo.

 

This town is worldwide known for its Iberian Acorn ham (Jamón ibérico de bellota) called jamón de Jabugo (Jabugo Ham).

Jabugo’s Iberian Ham Production:

The curing process of hams lasts 18-30 months, depending on what we are about to explain.  After being fed with acorn-rich pastures, Iberian hams are sacrificed. Their lives last an average of 21 months and nothing of them is thrown away. A wide range of products will be produced: salami, sausages, black pudding, meat… and, of course, the main product: ham.

As the process of creating a fine ham is long and complicated, a detailed explanation will be provided.

First of all, pigs are branded to indicate the exact date in which they have been sacrificed, then a V shaped cut is applied (known also as “Serrano cut”). After that, the salting process begins and hams are packed in piles (8 hams per pile) of cooking salt (1 day per kilo). It is very important to verify the levels of humidity and the temperature. Once this process is finished, ham will be washed with cold or lukewarm water in order to clean off the salt. The product will not be in direct contact with salt anymore.

Consequently, ham will be stored in another room during 35/60 days with a low level of humidity and at low temperature. Here, salt will be naturally absorbed and the moisture will be dried out.

Then, the hams are continued to be hung, one by one, facing south for 6-9 months. During this time, the temperature remains between 15 and 30 degrees. Dramatic shifts in temperature will have a negative effect on hams. With PDO products this process is carried out manually. Experts will open or close the windows in order to support the evolution of hams. Then, meat begins to take on the “cured” qualities and acorns’ fats will be absorbed by the muscles.

The next stage is to move the hams to the aging cellar. Normally they are aged for 6 up to 18 months (it depends on weight and quality). Temperature may range between 10 and 20 degrees with a humidity of 70%. In the external part will grow a layer of mould that differs from cellar to cellar. This layer will give hams their unique flavor and aroma.

In the final stage of the curing process, experts pierce hams with a needle to test the aroma and rank them.

Translated by:

Angelo Nestore (dioniso@hotmail.es)

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There is no difference between the Jabugo ham and the Iberian ham because  Jabugo’s ham is an iberian ham. They come from Iberian pigs with and without race mix.
What it happens is that the ham from Jabugo (Huelva) has obtained a lot of  fame and  there are people that think that it is a superior quality than Iberian ham.
This is wrong because Jabugo provides good Iberian hams and bad Iberian hams, so to talk about Jabugo’s ham does not means necessarily to talk about quality hams.

If we want to eat a good Jabugo’s ham, we first must to know if it’s a bellota ham (The highest iberian ham quality), which is the manufacturer and how it elaborates the hams. 

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Get your ham hand cut by a professional .
At Spanishtaste, you can buy a real Spanish pata negra ham and receive it already hand cut by a professional cutter.
You receive your ham cut into thin slices and vacuum bags 150gr-200gr. 
This is the easiest way to enjoy one of the best hams in the world without complications.
To receive it already cut, you simply have to choose “receive the ham hand cut” when buying your ham. This service has a cost of 40 € but you can keep your ham for a long time without problem.

To appreciate his quality and flavor, you simply have to pass the packet under hot water for 10 seconds before opening. So ham will take the heat and get his real flavor.
You can also receive your ham boneless and prepared to pieces of one kilo  selecting “receive your Iberian ham boneless.” 

 

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Spanishtaste is an online shop where you buy spanish Pata Negra ham with quality bellota directly from spain.
We have iberian hams from Huelva (Jabugo), Extremadura and Córdoba.
We only sell Bellota quality, only the best.
You can buy your ham in a full piece, boneless or hand cut by a professional.
Visit our shop of Iberian Pata Negra ham and buy your ham easily and with the warranty of spanishtaste.
You can also read and post your questions about the pata negra ham in our blog. Here we will try to help spanish ham lovers, to know more about it.

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